Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Fruit in Urban Gardens

Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Close by, a police siren pierces the almost continuous road noise. Commuters hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds gather.

It is maybe the last place you expect to find a well-established vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has managed to 40 mature vines heavy with plump purplish grapes on a sprawling allotment sandwiched between a row of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just above the city downtown.

"I've noticed individuals hiding illegal substances or whatever in those bushes," states Bayliss-Smith. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your grapevines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He's organized a loose collective of cultivators who produce vintage from several hidden urban vineyards nestled in back gardens and allotments across Bristol. The project is too clandestine to have an formal title yet, but the collective's messaging chat is named Grape Expectations.

City Vineyards Across the World

So far, the grower's plot is the only one listed in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming world atlas, which features better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 vines on the slopes of Paris's historic Montmartre area and over 3,000 vines overlooking and within Turin. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the vanguard of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them throughout the world, including urban centers in East Asia, South Asia and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens help cities stay greener and more diverse. These spaces preserve land from construction by creating long-term, yielding agricultural units within cities," says the association's president.

Similar to other vintages, those created in urban areas are a product of the earth the vines grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who tend the grapes. "A bottle of wine represents the beauty, community, environment and heritage of a urban center," notes the president.

Unknown Eastern European Variety

Back in Bristol, the grower is in a urgent timeline to gather the vines he grew from a plant abandoned in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the precipitation arrives, then the birds may take advantage to feast once more. "Here we have the mystery Eastern European grape," he says, as he cleans bruised and rotten berries from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly hardy. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous French grapes – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this could be a unique cultivar that was bred by the Soviets."

Group Efforts Across Bristol

The other members of the group are also taking advantage of sunny interludes between showers of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking the city's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with casks of wine from Europe and Spain, Katy Grant is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty plants. "I adore the smell of these vines. It is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a basket of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the car windows on holiday."

Grant, 52, who has spent over 20 years working for charitable groups in conflict zones, inadvertently took over the grape garden when she returned to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her family in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This plot has previously endured multiple proprietors," she says. "I really like the concept of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can continue producing from the soil."

Sloping Gardens and Traditional Winemaking

Nearby, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated over one hundred fifty vines perched on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, Scofield, 60, is picking bunches of dusty purple dark berries from rows of plants arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her child, Luca. Scofield, a documentary producer who has contributed to streaming service's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She has learned that hobbyists can make interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can sell for more than £7 a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments specialising in low-processing vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly create quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It is quite on trend, but really it's reviving an old way of making vintage."

"When I tread the grapes, all the wild yeasts are released from the skins into the liquid," explains Scofield, ankle deep in a container of small branches, seeds and red liquid. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but industrial wineries add sulphur [dioxide] to kill the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced culture."

Challenging Conditions and Creative Solutions

In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who inspired Scofield to plant her vines, has gathered his companions to harvest white wine varieties from the 100 vines he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to France. However it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce French-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers," admits the retiree with a smile. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."

"My goal was creating Burgundian wines in this environment, which is rather ambitious"

The temperamental local weather is not the only challenge faced by grape cultivators. The gardener has had to install a fence on

John Huynh
John Huynh

Elara is a seasoned mountaineer and travel writer with over a decade of experience exploring remote peaks and sharing her adventures.